Asparagus & Radishes with Ricotta Salata & Pistachio Brown Butter

I often want to talk about seasonal vegetables, and then end up talking about butter. Darn.

But do you know the virtues of brown butter, aka beurre noisette, and how easily it elevates this composed vegetable dish? I tasted it at the Vertitable Quandry down in Portland -- a sentimental favorite whose menu seems to get better and better -- and have found it easy to recreate at home as a summer-licious sidekick to grilled fish and chicken.

Start with warm, plump, steamed asparagus and cold, shaved radish. Add thin pieces of firm, salty ricotta salata, and drizzle the dish with toasted pistachios tossed in beurre noisette and a few drops of white balsamic vinegar. Eat right away!

ASPARAGUS & RADISHES WITH RICOTTA SALATA & PISTACHIO BROWN BUTTER

Serves 2 as a side dish

3 tablespoons chopped pistachios

1/4 cup good-quality unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon white balsamic vinegar (white wine vinegar is also fine)

1 pinch kosher salt

10 spears plump, local asparagus

3 local radishes, trimmed, sliced thinly and chilled

2 ounces ricotta salata, sliced thinly

Freshly ground black pepper (optional)

Place a medium-sized skillet on medium-high heat. Add pistachios and toast them, tossing occasionally, until fragrant. Add butter and cook, covering the pan if necessary, until it turns light brown with little brown specks. Remove pan from heat and let cool slightly; add vinegar and salt.

Bring a 4-quart pot of salted water to a boil. Meanwhile, use a paring knife or vegetable peeler to trim the base of each asparagus spear, making sure nothing too firm or branchy remains. Boil the asparagus until tender, about 7 minutes. While you're doing that, place the pistachio-brown butter sauce back on low heat and make sure the chilled radishes and ricotta are ready.

Drain asparagus and toss it with a bit of sauce. Plate the asparagus. Top it with radish and ricotta. Drizzle with remaining sauce, and sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper if desired.