Apple Sweets, Part 2

More new-harvest apples!

SPICED BUTTERMILK WAFFLES WITH CARAMELIZED APPLES & YOGURT

Serves 4

2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus more butter for brushing waffle iron

1 3/4 cups buttermilk

2 large eggs, separated

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 recipe Caramelized Apples (recipe below)

4-6 tablespoons plain or vanilla low-fat yogurt

Place flour, baking soda, salt and spices in the bowl of a standing mixer. Add melted butter, buttermilk, egg yolks, honey and vanilla, and mix on medium speed until a few lumps remain (this is the butter, which has come to room temperature again).

Transfer the mixture to a larger bowl, and wash and dry the stand-up mixer's bowl. OR, if you have a second standing-mixer bowl (man, I've always wanted one of those), then skip this step. Place the egg whites in a clean stand-up mixer bowl and whip until stiff but not dry. Fold egg whites into the batter gently.

Heat a greased waffle iron. Brush both sides with butter and ladle in batter, following instructions from your waffle iron manufacturer so waffle is golden brown. Repeat with remaining batter. Serve waffles hot with Caramelized Apples and yogurt.

Caramelized Apples:

4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

3 fresh gala apples, peeled and diced

3 tablespoons light brown sugar

1/4 teaspoon cinnamon

Heat butter on medium in a large skillet until melted. Add diced apples, brown sugar and cinnamon. Stir to coat apples with butter and brown sugar. Cover pan for a few minutes to let apples soften, checking and stirring occasionally. Lower heat if necessary. Remove lid and cook for a few more minutes until a syrupy sauce develops. Serve warm.

Apple Torte with Breadcrumb-Hazelnut Crust

Fall is the best time to cook, right? I love to pull on a sweater and go for a walk on a crisp sunny day, seeing how the leaves are changing, and then coming home to make sausages with sauerkraut, or braised pork shoulder with noodles, or roasted chicken and root vegetables, or an apple or pear dessert.

This torte from the cover of October's Bon Appetit brings together two great Washington ingredients -- apples and hazelnuts -- so I thought I'd try it.

The crust is unusual, made with dry breadcrumbs, ground hazelnuts and lemon zest. Instructions for making it are confusing and led to several reader questions and comments online, including mine. You start out with 8 cups of ground fresh French or Italian breadcrumbs, and then you toast them. This should result in about 3 cups; for me it didn't, but whatever you end up with, go ahead and mix it together with the other ingredients as instructed. I wish the recipe had just called for the fresh bread in weight, rather than in cups. That would have made it easier not only to measure the breadcrumbs but also to purchase the loaves in the first place.

I served the torte with vanilla whipped cream, and I loved the flavor of the apples, hazelnuts and lemon, but wasn't particularly fond of the breadcrumbs' texture. No blame here for the recipe's creator, celebrity chef Lydia Bastianich; after all, fall cravings are so subjective and personal. But next time I'll make a more conventional apple pie with a flaky crust.

In the meantime, click here for the Bon Appetit recipe if you'd like to try this. The flavors are definitely nice with an old-world Italian meal.

Early Fall Lasagna

The last of the season's tomatoes and zucchini found their way into this Greek-ish take on lasagna, a layered, cheesed and baked dish that means many things to many people.

I grew up with Catholic lasagna -- the no-nonsense ilk comprised of ground beef, pasta, ricotta, red sauce and mozzarella. Ruddy-faced moms served it with iceberg salad and garlic-powder bread in our brightly lit church basement. In these endeavors to raise funds for church construction or athletic equipment, the lasagna was fine, but it certainly wasn't the point.

As a kid I also associated this type of casserole with hospital visits and funerals...a dish that earnest volunteers delivered to the family at home to provide comfort. So, despite all these nice intentions, I didn't exactly crave the stuff.

That all changed in the fall of 6th grade, when I visited my friend Tonya Rulli's Greek Orthodox church festival. She and I made our way that night through a crowded kitchen to ask her mom for money, and I'll never forget the smells: fresh dill, lamb, olive oil, garlic, cinnamon, and a heavy dose of Liz Claiborne perfume.

These Greek moms were clearly different -- more glamorous -- and I studied their long nails, gold jewelry, meticulous make-up, and colored and coiffed hair. Then Tonya and I ate pastitsio, which she described as the Greek Orthodox version of Catholic lasagna. It was creamier, far more flavorful, and it made me want to convert.

My Greek-ish lasagna is not exactly pastitsio, which uses tubular penne-like noodles, and typically has just three distinct layers -- one of seasoned meat, one of pasta, and one of baked custard or bechamel sauce. But I'm inspired by its flavors of cinnamon, nutmeg and cream.

Not following a recipe, I listened strictly to pregnancy cravings. First a pound of ground beef, browned with diced white onion and cinnamon to taste. In another pan, some fresh garlic, zucchini and tomatoes, sauteed in olive oil; to these I added a fairly simple but good quality bottled pasta sauce, then minced fresh dill, then crumbled feta cheese until the sauce looked creamy. Next came the bechamel sauce, a standard recipe to which I added cinnamon, allspice and nutmeg to taste.

I brushed a square pan with olive oil and layered: Seasoned meat, then vegetables with pasta sauce, then no-boil lasagna noodles. All this again, and again, and then a thick layer of bechamel sauce. I covered it with shredded mozzarella and baked it at 375 F. until bubbly, about 45 minutes. It then sat under the broiler for a few minutes to brown on top.

Great Zeus, it was tasty.